Low Water Pressure
Low Water Pressure | Pipe Upgrades | Plumbing
Tired of the trickle that greets you every time you turn on the tap? Low water pressure is often the symptom of tired, corroded or undersized pipes— and HEP knows exactly how to bring your plumbing back to full force. Our certified technicians start with a smart pressure assessment, pinpoint hidden restrictions, then recommend tailored pipe upgrades that replace outdated lines with sleek, high-capacity materials. The result is an instant, satisfying boost in flow that makes showers hotter, appliances happier and mornings a lot less frustrating.
Choosing HEP means enjoying clear pricing, tidy workmanship and a team that respects your schedule as much as your home. We handle all permitting, arrive with the right parts, and back our work with solid guarantees—so the only thing you’ll notice is stronger, more reliable water pressure. Ready to say goodbye to drips and hello to a powerful stream? Let us show you how effortless modern plumbing can be.
FAQs
What are the most common causes of low water pressure in a home?
The three main culprits are undersized or corroded supply lines, partially closed shut-off valves, and accumulated mineral scale inside older galvanized steel or iron pipes. Even a single badly kinked copper or PEX line can restrict flow. A professional inspection pinpoints whether the issue is pipe diameter, pipe material deterioration, pressure-reducing valve settings, or a municipal supply problem.
How can upgrading my pipes improve water pressure?
Newer piping materials (copper, PEX, or CPVC) with a larger internal diameter allow more water to flow with less friction loss, instantly increasing pressure at fixtures. Re-piping also eliminates internal corrosion and mineral buildup that narrow old galvanized or steel pipes. In many cases, simply upsizing the main trunk from 1⁄2" to 3⁄4" or 1" and replacing corroded branch lines will raise usable pressure by 20–40 psi without relying on pumps.
Which pipe material should I choose—copper, PEX, or CPVC?
Copper is durable, has a 50-plus-year lifespan, and resists UV damage, but it’s more expensive and takes longer to install. PEX is flexible, fast to run, needs fewer fittings (fewer potential leak points), costs about 30 % less than copper, and handles freeze expansion better. CPVC is budget-friendly, easy to glue, and works well for retrofit jobs that require rigid piping. Your plumber will recommend a material based on budget, local code, and whether the pipes will be exposed to sunlight or extreme temperatures.
Will I have to move out while my home is being re-piped?
Usually, no. Plumbers isolate and re-pipe one zone at a time, so at least one bathroom and the kitchen can stay in service most of the day. Overnight shutoffs may be required for final tie-ins, but total water downtime is normally limited to a few hours. In larger homes or extensive remodels, you might prefer to vacate for 1–2 days, but it’s rarely mandatory.
How long does a typical pipe upgrade take?
A full re-pipe of an average 2-bath, 3-bedroom home typically takes 2–4 days, including drywall patching. Smaller jobs—such as replacing a main supply line or upsizing a few critical branches—can be finished in less than one day. Factors that extend timelines include slab-on-grade foundations (which may need overhead PEX reroutes), multi-story layouts, or extensive asbestos/lead abatement requirements.
What should I budget for a whole-house pipe upgrade and is it worth it?
In most regions, costs range from $4,000 to $12,000, depending on home size, pipe material, number of fixtures, and required wall/ceiling repairs. Although it’s a significant investment, upgrading pipes not only restores strong, consistent water pressure but also eliminates future leak risks, brings plumbing up to current code, and increases home resale value. Many homeowners recoup 50–80 % of the cost through higher appraisal figures and lower insurance claims over time.