Safety Codes

HEP PlumbingSafety Codes

Safety Codes | Tank Water Heater | Plumbing | Louisville

When the hot water stops flowing or you’re ready to upgrade to higher efficiency, Louisville homeowners trust HEP to handle every detail—right down to the last code-required strap and valve. Our licensed plumbers know the local and national safety codes inside and out, so your tank water heater is installed or repaired with meticulous attention to venting, seismic bracing, temperature-pressure relief, and backflow prevention. We pull permits, coordinate inspections, and document every step, giving you total peace of mind and a reliable supply of hot water all year long.

From emergency replacements to proactive maintenance, HEP delivers prompt, courteous service that respects your home and your schedule. You’ll get transparent pricing, neat workmanship, and clear explanations of how your system works—plus tips to extend its life and cut energy costs. Discover why neighbors across Louisville call HEP first for all things plumbing and safety-code compliance, and enjoy the comfort and confidence that come with a perfectly tuned tank water heater.

FAQs

Do I need a permit to replace or install a tank-type water heater in Louisville?

Yes. Louisville Metro’s Department of Codes & Regulations requires a plumbing permit for any replacement, relocation, or new installation of a tank water heater, whether gas or electric. A licensed Kentucky master plumber must pull the permit, perform the work, and call for the final inspection. Skipping the permit can lead to fines, denied insurance claims, or difficulty selling the home later.

Which safety codes govern tank water heater installations in Louisville?

Tank-type water heaters must comply with the Kentucky State Plumbing Code (which adopts the 2021 International Plumbing Code with state amendments), the National Fuel Gas Code (NFPA 54) for gas models, the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70) for electric units, and Louisville Metro Ordinances. These codes cover proper sizing, venting, combustion air, relief valves, seismic anchoring where required, thermal expansion control, and drain pan installation.

What clearances are required around a gas water heater?

The Kentucky Plumbing Code calls for a minimum 2 in. of clearance on the sides and rear of a gas tank water heater and 12 in. of unobstructed space in front for servicing. Manufacturers’ instructions may demand more space; the stricter requirement prevails. Adequate clearance prevents fire hazards, allows safe combustion air flow, and lets inspectors confirm code compliance.

Do I need a thermal expansion tank when I install a new water heater?

Usually, yes. Louisville Water Company uses backflow-preventing check valves at the meter, creating a ‘closed’ plumbing system. The Kentucky Plumbing Code §607.3 requires an approved expansion device—typically a properly sized expansion tank—on any closed potable hot-water system. Without it, pressure spikes can damage the heater, burst supply lines, and void the manufacturer’s warranty.

What venting rules apply to gas-fired tank water heaters?

Gas models must be vented per NFPA 54 and the manufacturer’s listing. Key points include: • Use Type B double-wall metal vent or listed PVC/CPVC for power-vent units. • Maintain a minimum 1 ft. rise for every 4 ft. of horizontal run (¼ in./ft.) on natural-draft vents. • Keep vent joints secured with sheet-metal screws and sealed where required. • Terminate the flue at least 3 ft. above the roof and 2 ft. higher than any part of the building within 10 ft. • Provide two permanent combustion air openings if the unit is in a confined space. An improper vent can cause carbon-monoxide buildup and will not pass the Louisville Metro inspection.

How often should I test or replace the temperature-and-pressure (T&P) relief valve?

The T&P valve is the primary safety device that prevents tank rupture. Codes require every water heater to have a listed, properly sized T&P valve set to 150 psi/210 °F. Homeowners should lift the lever for a brief test once a year to ensure it discharges freely. If it will not open, leaks afterward, or is more than 5–7 years old, a licensed plumber should replace it. Always run the discharge line full-size (¾ in.), slope it downward, and terminate within 6 in. of the floor without threading or caps, as required by code.

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